C & L Construction Services

Location: Waterlooville, Hampshire
Member Since: 25th Aug 2022


  • Demolition Contractors
  • Carpenters
  • Decorators

About Us:

I have spent 10+ years in the building industry doing roof carpentry, roof tiling, house extensions/ renovations , fencing, outdoor patios , decking plus painting and decorating. We work in Hampshire local to Portsmouth. Full Insurance with every job. We’re happy when our customers are happy, friendly service.


I have spent 6+ years in the building industry in Australia doing roof carpentry, roof tiling on new builds as well as 1st and 2nd storey house extensions/ renovations , fencing, outdoor patios , decking plus painting and decorating interiors and exteriors, from apartments to 5 bedroom houses. We work in Hampshire local to Portsmouth. Full Insurance with every job. We’re happy when our customers are happy, friendly service.


3 reviews, 100% Positive
Repair garden shed - Joinery & Carpentry job in Portsmouth

“Quick response, good workmanship, reasonably priced. ”
Remove old rotten decking & flatten area for grass - Demolition & Clearing job in Southampton

“They were absolutely fantastic! They booked me in very fast, and completed the work in just 4 hours! Great communication, and very friendly people. Great attention to detail. They really listened to what we wanted, and skirted any obstacles to make sure they could complete it the way we wanted. Very pleased, and will use them again.”
Whole house - Painting & decorating job in Havant

“Had my whole house painted done a really good job. Clean tidy, reliable and friendly. Very pleased. Would highly recommend. ”


Hello rick,
treated timber is recommended for wall plates, especially if they are in contact with masonry or exposed to moisture. treated timber provides better resistance against decay, insects, and fungal growth.
while nhbc guidance doesn’t explicitly specify timber treatment, it’s generally advisable to use treated timber for wall plates to enhance their durability and longevity.
the choice between c16 and c24 timber depends on the load-bearing requirements and the span of the wall plate.
c24 timber is stronger and more suitable for longer spans or heavier loads. it’s commonly used in situations where higher structural performance is needed.
c16 timber is adequate for many applications, especially when the spans are shorter and loads are moderate.
consider the specific design requirements, roof structure, and local building practices when selecting the timber grade.
kind regards.
damp-proof course (dpc): check if there’s a dpc (a waterproof layer) between the brickwork and the block paving. if the dpc is compromised or absent, moisture can rise through the bricks.
solution: repair or install a new dpc. this may involve lifting the block paving near the bay window and ensuring proper dpc placement.
tarmac damp line maybe.
capillary action: water can move laterally through porous materials like tarmac due to capillary action.
solution: ensure proper drainage around the tarmac area. consider installing a french drain or improving surface grading to redirect water away. sometimes, dampness can persist due to slow evaporation or hidden sources (e.g., underground water). solution: monitor the area over time. if the issue persists, consider professional help to investigate hidden water sources.
remember that diagnosing damp issues can be complex, and it’s best to consult a qualified building professional or surveyor. they can assess the specific situation, identify the root cause, and recommend appropriate remedies.
kind regards,

Certainly! let’s address your concerns regarding the installation of suspended timber floors. while i’m not a qualified structural engineer, i can provide some general insights based on industry guidelines and best practices.
method used:
the method your contractor has employed seems unconventional and may not align with standard practices. using cut pieces of ply boards, tongue and groove floorboards, and packers as a base on top of a concrete floor slab is not typical for suspended timber floors.
suspended timber floors are usually constructed with a more robust and consistent support system.
adjustable timber cradle supports vs. other methods:
adjustable timber cradle supports (also known as adjustable pedestals or cradles) are commonly used for supporting suspended timber floors. these supports allow precise leveling and adjustment.
here are some considerations:
adjustability: adjustable cradle supports can be fine-tuned to ensure a level and stable base for the timber floor.
uniformity: using cut pieces of various materials (plywood, tongue and groove boards, etc.) may result in an uneven surface, affecting the stability and load distribution.
durability: the longevity of the floor system depends on the quality and durability of the materials used. plywood and floorboards may not provide consistent support over time.
load-bearing capacity: the 8mm adjustable decking pad may not be sufficient to support the weight of the timber floor and any additional loads (e.g., furniture, occupants).
industry standards and guidelines:
nhbc standards (national house building council) provide guidance on construction practices. while they don’t explicitly specify adjustable cradle supports, they emphasize proper construction, leveling, and load-bearing capacity.
nhbc standards require that upper floors be constructed in a workmanlike manner and provide satisfactory performance1. deviations from standard practices should be carefully evaluated.
consult a professional:
given the complexity of suspended timber floors and potential long-term implications, i recommend seeking professional advice.
structural engineers, architects, or building surveyors can assess the installation, verify its compliance with regulations, and recommend corrective actions if necessary.
they can also evaluate load-bearing capacity, material suitability, and overall safety.
document the installation:
take detailed photographs of the installation, highlighting the areas of concern.
keep records of communication with your contractor and any concerns raised.
remember that your safety and the structural integrity of your home are paramount. consult with a qualified professional to assess the situation and determine the best course of action.
When it comes to painting new oak doors, here’s the recommended approach:
painting door frames:
always paint the door frames first before hanging the doors. this ensures a clean and precise finish without any drips or smears on the door itself.
follow these steps for painting door frames:
remove the door: take the door off its hinges to have easy access to all edges of the frame, including the bottom.
clean the frame: thoroughly clean the frame to remove any dust or debris.
fill cracks or holes: use caulk to fill any cracks or holes in the frame.
apply painter’s tape: protect the baseboards and adjacent surfaces by applying painter’s tape around the frame.
prime (optional): if the frame is bare wood or hasn’t been painted before, consider applying a coat of primer. primer ensures better paint adhesion and coverage.
paint the frame: use a paintbrush and/or mini roller to apply your chosen paint color to the frame.
allow to dry: follow the drying time specified by the paint manufacturer.
hang the door: once the frame is dry, you can hang the door back in place.
door material and style considerations:
if you’ve bought new oak doors and haven’t hung them yet, it’s best to paint them before installation.
painting before hanging allows you to access all edges of the door, including the hinge edge, which can be tricky once the door is in position.
remember to choose a high-quality paint suitable for oak doors, and take your time to achieve a professional finish. happy painting!
Depending on the size of the chimney and the environment of the job as to how much equipment and safety gear is required on such a job and therefore it is impossible to determine the cost without knowing all these factors and assumptions don’t work, you need to physically look at the job in order to give an accurate estimate.
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