Ro Maintenance

Yes, treat the timber for longevity. c16 suffices for standard loads; opt for c24 for heavier demands.

I understand the concerns about the burst pipe incident following the megaflow system installation. it's important to note that megaflow systems deliver mains pressure, making additional shower pumps unnecessary and potentially problematic. recognizing this, it appears there was an oversight in assessing the compatibility of the existing shower pump with the new system.

as the professional responsible, i acknowledge the need for a more thorough compatibility check to prevent such issues. moving forward, i commit to detailed evaluations for all system integrations and aim to resolve this matter promptly and fairly.

The noise you're describing, especially with the presence of a "big white tank" under the sink, suggests it might be related to a water filtration system, a water softener, or possibly the under-sink plumbing setup for an unvented hot water system.

The method your contractor used for installing the suspended timber floors, particularly the use of cut pieces of ply boards, tongue and groove floorboards, packers as a base, and an 8mm adjustable decking pad to support 50mm timbers, is not a standard approach for high-quality flooring installations. typically, a more robust and precise method is preferred, especially in professional settings, to ensure stability, durability, and levelness of the floor. here are a few considerations:

structural integrity and load distribution: the primary concern with the described method is whether it provides adequate structural integrity and evenly distributes the load across the floor. the use of packers and cut pieces may not offer the best support and could lead to uneven floor levels or more serious structural issues over time.
moisture and ventilation: suspended timber floors require careful consideration of moisture control and ventilation to prevent rot or deterioration of the timber. the construction method should ensure there is adequate airflow and protection against moisture from the concrete slab below.
building codes and standards: the method used should comply with local building codes and standards, which typically specify requirements for suspended floors, including materials and construction techniques to ensure safety and durability.
use of adjustable timber cradle support: adjustable timber cradle systems are often used for their ability to provide a stable, level, and adjustable base for timber joists. this method is widely regarded as a more appropriate and reliable solution for creating suspended timber floors over concrete slabs, offering easier adjustability and better load distribution.
given your concerns, it might be wise to:

consult a structural engineer or flooring specialist: get a second opinion from a professional who can assess the installation's integrity and advise on the best course of action.
review the contractor’s method against building codes: ensure that the construction method meets local building regulations and standards for suspended floors.
discuss concerns with your contractor: bring up your concerns directly with your contractor, asking for an explanation of the chosen method and how it aligns with best practices and standards.
if the method used is indeed found to be substandard or not in compliance with building codes, you may need to discuss remediation steps with your contractor to ensure your floor is safe, durable, and properly installed.

the banging or knocking noise you're experiencing when you turn on the hot water tap is commonly referred to as "water hammer." this phenomenon can occur due to several reasons, but it primarily happens when the flow of water in the pipes is suddenly stopped or changed, causing a surge of pressure that leads to the pipes moving and banging against walls or other pipes. here are a few potential causes and solutions:

high water pressure: excessive water pressure in your home can cause water hammer. this is more noticeable with hot water due to the expansion of pipes. reducing water pressure using a pressure reducing valve may help.
air chambers: modern plumbing systems include air chambers or water hammer arrestors to cushion the shock wave created by the sudden stop of water flow. if these air chambers become waterlogged or are absent, water hammer can occur. draining the system can sometimes reintroduce air into these chambers, but since you've mentioned this hasn't worked, they might be malfunctioning or absent.
check valves and pipe mounts: faulty check valves or loose pipe mounts can exacerbate water hammer issues. ensure all pipes are securely fastened and check for any malfunctioning valves that may need replacement.
thermal expansion: when hot water flows through the pipes, they expand and can rub against structural elements, creating noise. this issue might be mitigated by adjusting the path or securing the pipes more firmly to accommodate expansion.
faulty taps or appliances: sometimes, specific appliances or taps can cause water hammer due to the way they shut off water flow. if the issue is isolated to the hot water tap, consider inspecting or replacing the tap's mechanism.
solutions can include installing water hammer arrestors near the source of the noise, ensuring the plumbing system is correctly pressurized, securing loose pipes, or consulting with a plumber to inspect and possibly adjust or replace the internal mechanisms of your taps. given the complexity of plumbing systems and the potential for damage if not correctly addressed, consulting a professional plumber for a thorough diagnosis and remedy is often the best course of action.