Jh City Property Construction
Location: Bloomsbury, London
Member Since: 16th Apr 2026
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About Us:
JH City Property Construction provides professional property renovation and refurbishment services across London. We specialise in internal and external works, including painting and decorating, plastering, bathrooms, kitchens, flooring, and structural alterations. With an experienced in-house team, we deliver high-quality finishes, reliable service, and attention to detail on every project.
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History:
JH City Property is a renovation and estate agency company specialising in high-quality residential projects across London.
With over 18 years of industry experience, we provide a complete property solution - from full renovations and interior improvements to property sales and lettings. All work is carried out by our in-house team, ensuring consistent quality, reliability, and attention to detail.
Our services include full property renovations, bathrooms, flooring, and general property improvements, alongside property sales and lettings.
With over 18 years of industry experience, we provide a complete property solution - from full renovations and interior improvements to property sales and lettings. All work is carried out by our in-house team, ensuring consistent quality, reliability, and attention to detail.
Our services include full property renovations, bathrooms, flooring, and general property improvements, alongside property sales and lettings.
Other:
- Painting and Decorating Association
- CAA (Construction Award Alliance)
- Institute of Kitchen Bedroom & Bathroom Installers
- CAA (Construction Award Alliance)
- Institute of Kitchen Bedroom & Bathroom Installers
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Answers:
Remove the flush plate first — it usually clips off and gives access to the cistern, where the shut-off valve is often located.
if it’s not there, check for a hidden/removable panel on the boxing.
if there’s no access at all, cut a neat access hatch and fit a cover — don’t damage the panels.
if it’s not there, check for a hidden/removable panel on the boxing.
if there’s no access at all, cut a neat access hatch and fit a cover — don’t damage the panels.
Sounds like a low pressure/flow issue.
your shower is likely not getting enough flow on its own, so it only works when the basin taps are open (which increases flow/pressure in the system). when you shut them, the unit detects low flow ? triggers the red light and cuts out.
answer to post:
this is usually a low water pressure/flow issue. the shower needs a minimum flow to operate, and it’s only getting that when the basin taps are open. when they’re off, the unit cuts out (hence the red light/beeping).
check for:
• blocked filters or inlet strainers
• partially closed isolation valves
• low mains pressure
you may need to clean filters or have the supply checked.
your shower is likely not getting enough flow on its own, so it only works when the basin taps are open (which increases flow/pressure in the system). when you shut them, the unit detects low flow ? triggers the red light and cuts out.
answer to post:
this is usually a low water pressure/flow issue. the shower needs a minimum flow to operate, and it’s only getting that when the basin taps are open. when they’re off, the unit cuts out (hence the red light/beeping).
check for:
• blocked filters or inlet strainers
• partially closed isolation valves
• low mains pressure
you may need to clean filters or have the supply checked.
Yes, that explanation makes sense.
when you switch the boiler on, it also powers the heating controls, including the 3-port valve. if that valve was leaking onto its electrics or actuator, it could easily cause a short or earth fault, which would trip the electrics.
so the boiler itself isn’t faulty — it was just the trigger that energised a faulty component.
£500 for draining, replacing a 3-port valve, and labour is within a normal range.
when you switch the boiler on, it also powers the heating controls, including the 3-port valve. if that valve was leaking onto its electrics or actuator, it could easily cause a short or earth fault, which would trip the electrics.
so the boiler itself isn’t faulty — it was just the trigger that energised a faulty component.
£500 for draining, replacing a 3-port valve, and labour is within a normal range.
Yes, you can shut off the main water supply and drain down to change the shower valve.
it won’t damage the boiler or cylinder, but:
• turn off the boiler and immersion first
• close the main stopcock
• open taps (including the shower) to drain pressure
• expect some residual water from the tank
most pressurised systems (unvented cylinders) do have isolation valves nearby, but if you’re unsure, shutting the main and draining is the safe method.
it won’t damage the boiler or cylinder, but:
• turn off the boiler and immersion first
• close the main stopcock
• open taps (including the shower) to drain pressure
• expect some residual water from the tank
most pressurised systems (unvented cylinders) do have isolation valves nearby, but if you’re unsure, shutting the main and draining is the safe method.
Sounds like you’ve hit a dot/dab adhesive spot, not brick — that’s normal on this type of wall.
you won’t always get a cavity or clean hit on brick because of the dabs.
answer to post:
you’ve likely drilled into a dot/dab adhesive, which is why it feels solid and not hollow or brick.
for a light item like a clock:
• use a plasterboard fixing (e.g. gripit, toggle, or hollow wall plug) and fix into the board only
if you want to go into brick:
• move slightly left/right to avoid the dab and drill again until you hit the cavity, then continue to brick
don’t keep drilling the same spot — just reposition slightly.
you won’t always get a cavity or clean hit on brick because of the dabs.
answer to post:
you’ve likely drilled into a dot/dab adhesive, which is why it feels solid and not hollow or brick.
for a light item like a clock:
• use a plasterboard fixing (e.g. gripit, toggle, or hollow wall plug) and fix into the board only
if you want to go into brick:
• move slightly left/right to avoid the dab and drill again until you hit the cavity, then continue to brick
don’t keep drilling the same spot — just reposition slightly.
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