Northpoint Developments

It sounds like you may have drilled directly into a dab of plasterboard adhesive, which would explain why you haven't found the hollow gap you were expecting.

before drilling any further, check the depth of the existing hole and the type of dust coming out. white powdery dust generally indicates plasterboard or adhesive, whereas red or orange dust would suggest brickwork.

if it's a lightweight clock, a suitable plasterboard fixing may be sufficient without needing to drill into the brickwork. for a heavier clock, i'd recommend using a suitable masonry fixing that anchors securely into the brick behind the plasterboard.

make sure you check for any hidden cables or pipework before drilling further, particularly around sockets and switches.

if you do need to fix into the brickwork, a corefix-style fixing designed for dot and dab walls would be a good option, as it transfers the load to the masonry without crushing the plasterboard.

I wouldn’t recommend using plumbers mait to seal a shower tray, as it isn’t designed for exposed shower joints and won’t provide a reliable, long-term waterproof seal.

the best solution is to completely remove the existing sealant, thoroughly clean and dry the area, and apply a good-quality, flexible sanitary silicone specifically designed for bathrooms and showers.

before resealing, check whether the shower tray is moving under weight. if it is, the tray may need additional support, as excessive movement will cause even the best silicone to fail.

i’d also recommend filling the shower tray with water before applying the new silicone and leaving it filled until the sealant has fully cured, following the manufacturer’s instructions. this helps accommodate movement when the shower is in use.

if the leak has been severe, it’s worth checking for water damage behind the tiles and underneath the tray before resealing, as simply replacing the silicone may not resolve the underlying problem.

Cracking around door frames can sometimes be caused by normal building movement, shrinkage of plaster or movement between different materials. however, a crack up to 10mm wide is considerably larger than typical cosmetic hairline cracking, particularly if it has reappeared after being filled.

the fact that the cracking is horizontal above the entrance door means i would recommend having the lintel and surrounding brickwork checked. it doesn't necessarily mean there is a structural problem, but possible lintel movement, settlement or inadequate support should be ruled out before carrying out further cosmetic repairs.

repeatedly slamming the door or seasonal temperature changes can contribute to minor cracking, but i wouldn't assume they are responsible for a crack of this width.

i'd recommend checking for corresponding cracks in the external brickwork, gaps around the door frame, or any difficulty opening and closing the door, as these can indicate movement.

as the property is only seven years old and still under warranty, i would contact the warranty provider or original developer before paying for repairs. you may be able to arrange an initial inspection without committing to the £2,000 excess.

my advice would be to have the area inspected by a competent builder or structural engineer before filling it again. if it is simply movement between the plasterboard and door frame, it should be a relatively straightforward repair. however, if the cracking is caused by movement in the structure, the underlying issue needs addressing first.

It may be possible to connect the shower tray waste to the existing wet room drain without breaking into the floor, but it depends on the type of drain fitted and whether you have enough height to accommodate the new waste pipe.

the existing floor drain will already have a trap, so you need to ensure the new connection doesn't create a double-trap arrangement, which can cause slow drainage and blockages.

the best option would be to remove the existing drain cover and inspect the waste outlet to see whether a suitable adaptor or direct connection can be made. if this isn't possible, you may need to raise the shower tray on a suitable riser kit to allow the waste pipe to run above the existing floor.

i wouldn't recommend simply running the shower tray waste into the existing floor drain or sealing a pipe into the drain opening, as this could lead to leaks, unpleasant smells and future maintenance issues.

if a suitable connection cannot be achieved from above, some alterations to the existing drainage may be unavoidable to ensure a properly sealed, accessible and reliable installation.